New Sod Care


Water as needed!  We recommend leaving your irrigation timer off and manually watering your new sod.  It is best to water when your grass tell you it needs water!-(it starts to wilt.)  The first signs of wilt are- the grass blades will fold in half vertically, turn bluish grey in color and stay laying over for 5-10 minutes after walking on it.  In the winter it is usually not necessary to water every single day.  We typically say to water in the morning the first three days in a row and then every other day for 2-3 weeks in the winter.  In the summer (depending on the natural rainfall!) we recommend watering in the afternoon every day for 1 week and then re-evaluate.  We typically get a lot of rain in the summer and if you water in the morning and it rains in the afternoon you will get fungus.  It is best to water in the late afternoon when you are fairly certain it will not rain-(no double watering.)  In the spring and fall it is a mix between the two.  Ex: water in the middle of the day for 4-5 days in a row etc.  The watering times per zone typically do not vary per time of year except in the middle of the winter you may decrease the times per zone-(most new digital timers have a seasonal adjustment feature to accomplish this.)  Water 1/2”-1” per watering depending on the soil, shade or sun conditions.  You may figure out how much water your irrigation system is dispensing by placing cans out in the area being watered.  Adjust your timer accordingly to dispense the required amount per zone.  Large rotary heads running at 360 degrees can take up to 2 hrs to dispense ¾” of water-(depends on the size nozzle in the head.)  A typical #4 nozzle in a rotary head running 180 degrees takes 45-50 minutes to achieve ¾” of water.  A typical pop up sprayer usually disperses ¾” of water in 25-30 minutes of run time.  If an irrigation zone is in full sun and in full shade you will need to consult us directly to overcome this issue-until then do not water that zone with the irrigation system and hand water that area applying more water to the full sun area than the shaded area.  If you have pop up sprayers mixed in the same zone as rotary heads this is a big problem as they are dispensing completely different amounts of water.  If you do not have a rain sensor you are setup for a fungus disaster.

*Zoysia does not require much water in the winter turn your timer off and water when grass shows signs of drought!   Do not apply nitrogen to Zoysia after November until March (fungus)!!!


  • Floratam St. Augustine- mow at 4” in the warmer months and 3-3.5” in the winter.
  • Seville St Augustine- Mow at 3.25” in the warmer months and 2.75-3” in the winter.
  • Palmetto St Augustine- Mow at 3.75” in the warmer months and 3-3.25” in the winter.
  • Zoysia (all types)- Mow at 2.25-2.5” in the warmer  months and 2” in the winter.

*Note lack of fertilizer (Non dark green grass) will necessitate lower mowing heights.

The root depth is proportionate to the height of the grass.  Ex: 4” of blade = 4”+ of roots.  If you have extremely sandy soil and/or dry “hot spots” mow higher to get the roots to go deeper.  In heavily shaded areas mow higher to allow more surface area for the blades to absorb sunlight or grow.

*Zoysia does not require much water in the winter turn your timer off and water when grass shows signs of drought!   Do not apply nitrogen to Zoysia after November until March (fungus)!!!